Daydrinking, dining and downtime dovetail on the perfect patio for Atlanta’s gay urban explorers

By Mike Fleming

It’s hard to say what gets me going more. Warm weather? Weekends? Hanging with my gays? Sipping grown-up refreshments? Watching sexy joggers file by in short shorts? The best part about Ladybird Grove & Mess Hall in Old Fourth Ward is that I don’t have to choose. You don’t either.

Downtime and daydrinking collided on a recent Saturday that found the hip space two-deep at the bar with my lucky group at a sought-after table on the porch overlooking the bustling BeltLine. The lodge and travel motif – set off by a tree-bark bar, maps, communal tables, deer heads and a grizzly bear mural – is casual enough to handle my lively bunch, but just sophisticated enough to keep us in check if anyone really starts feeling his cocktails.

The libations themselves range from house takes on classic Bloody Marys and Old Fashioneds, to original fare with names like Fool in the Rain (with brandy, pear and thyme) and Tiger by the Tail (with chai gin).

But before you think there’s anything haughty going on, someone orders the Redneck Mimosa (Miller High Life and OJ), and someone else notices that the seasonal Patio Punch is served for parties of eight or 16, at $55 and $100 respectively.

A dozen local, artisanal drafts are on sale, but so are cans of Schlitz, Shiner and Jack’s. Wines come by the glass with a side jug for overage, and by the bottle. As a teetotaler, I had the seasonal lemonade, which was fantastic, and a refreshingly authentic ginger beer. What? Someone has to drive these queens.

You may have noticed by now, as had I, that Ladybird has a sharp focus on its status as a hip, Old Fourth Ward bar created with off-the-clock urban explorers in mind. Definitely go there for a pre-dinner nip, but take heart that you can stay for the food and be glad you did.

Campfire-inspired offerings include a double-stack burger that’s greasy and cheesy just the way the good lord intended, with house pickle and aioli that tweak it into something special. A fried chicken bucket with three sides puts the colonel to shame, s’mores pie was the bomb, and a grilled spatchock chicken melt with avocado and Swiss was so good that a second was ordered by a neighboring foodie, but too late: They were out of key ingredients.

Therein lies the biggest rub about Ladybird. The enjoyment of your surroundings may mean that the service is slow, if friendly. And you may not always be able to get what sounds good on the menu. Owner Michael Lennox and his pedigreed kitchen either haven’t found the right groove, don’t have enough competition to thin out crowds of hungry BeltLine revelers clamoring for a seat, or maybe daily menu adjustments, surprise substitutions and ingredient-availability issues are just part of the charming flexibility that is life on Atlanta’s new urban landscape.

Ladybird takes no reservations, which is fitting of the atmosphere and location. To circumvent menu shortage issues and to secure one of the coveted lanai tables, get there a little early. The gay gaggle shenanigans, and the aforementioned shirtless joggers, make the extra effort well worth it.

Want to go?
Ladybird Lounge
Where: 684 John Wesley Dobbs Ave.
Atlanta BeltLine Eastside Trail, Mile Marker 9.25
When: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. weekdays, 11 p.m. weekends (Limited menu between 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.
Info: ladybirdatlanta.com

Cape Dutch offers a sustenance shelter for gay Midtown foodies swept up in Atlanta’s eatery whirlwind of style over substance

By Mike Fleming

Not easily impressed by the prospect of another new restaurant, my date and I were more excited about the opportunity to catch up with each other than the off chance of being gastronomically wowed. Especially in Midtown on a random Thursday. Call us cynical gays, mostly because we are.

But give us a break. In a city full of four-star mainstays and celebrity cuisine, high-standard flash and “named” chefs can feel like a dime a dozen and leave a gay gourmand exhausted.

Enter the welcome port of Cape Dutch to the hit-or-miss squall lines of trendy-tables. It’s a fitting name since it translates loosely from Afrikaans to indicate western-coast port cities like Cape Town and the early European settlers that made a new home in those places. The restaurant is owned by South African native Justin Anthony, who also brings his native fare to Yebo, 10 Degrees South and Biltong Bar.

Cape Dutch delivers the region’s braai (rhymes with guy, and it means barbecue if you speak Georgian). A raging fire becomes a centerpiece of the restaurant’s soaring ceilings and a contemporary, subliminally nautical décor. At first, Cape Dutch may be most notable for bringing Buckhead’s hip restaurant vibe to Midtown in the former Woodfire Grill spot, but that feeling of something expected is temporary.

Turns out, braai is the grilled food experience that two cynical Southern queens raised on meat and potatoes didn’t know we were missing. One smell of select beef, seafood and exotic meats like elk, rabbit or lamb, and you’ll forget that a completely different set of gays are whooping it up just two doors down at Roxx.

And the menu isn’t afraid to leave South Africa and veer into ports all over the world. Anthony’s penchant for heritage combines with the European epicure of Belgian-born Chef Philippe Haddad, who elevates every dish for global flavors that converted this gay dining doubter.

Shaved asparagus and carrot get a lift with basil pesto. Spinach and arugula get goat cheese sorbet. Seared sea scallops appear over quinoa tabouli. At the risk of gushing, the braai turns same-old ribeye into a revelation.

I also tasted my dinner companion’s fall-off-the bone braai’d lamb shank, which was only improved by a buttery cauliflower puree. Other amazingness from the braai includes a whole fish, Maine Lobster, and 30-ounch Porterhouse, each with your choice of inspired sauces like Peri-Peri, Bernaise, and Red Wine Shallot Reduction.

We didn’t stop there. The gruyere gratin was pretty standard, but butternut squash steaks, lemongrass mussels in coconut milk, and caramelized Brussels sprouts were exceptional. House-made desserts from macaroons to chocolate soup with house-made raisin bread dipping sticks and almond brittle – we forced ourselves – may have permanently melted our icy hearts.

The restaurant didn’t know we were reviewing, making handshakes from general manager Mitch Flowers, expediting by Haddad himself, and the best service I’ve ever experienced in Atlanta even more remarkable. Ask for Andrew’s section for menu tips, wine pairings, inspired cocktail suggestions, and even a well-placed tidbit of appropriate conversation.

Quibbles go to the sometimes-noisy acoustics and a steep price point. If passing out stars and dollar signs, Cape Dutch easily earns five of each, but it’s worth it. Make it your hip dining respite for special occasions, or for picky gays you want to impress.

Want to go?
WHAT: Cape Dutch
WHERE: 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road NE, capedutchrestaurant.com
WHEN: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m.
HOW: $30-$50 per person before alcohol, sides and dessert

Bears, otters, daddies, college, jock, geek? Tired. Here’s the gay classification system you can really use on a date.

By Mike Fleming

If dates were hookups, gay men could pigeonhole each other into broad classifications. Instead, dinner dates are an opportunity to typecast guys and complement them in a way that will impress, rather than set you both up for failure.

Gay stereotyping based on body hair, age or size are problematic in the real world, but our wine-typing rules actually work. Beyond red with meat and white with fish, know which wine pairs with these characteristics, and you’ll both like the taste of knowing, like wine, none of us is good in a box.

Mr. Salty:
He’s kinda risqué, and he never shies away from a vulgar joke. He’s tough, which you like in small doses just like his namesake salty foods. Pour this guy Champagne or Cava to make him refreshing instead of overbearing.

Cheesy, but Rich:
Sure, his jokes are corny, but he treats you right. You first fell for his wallet, but now you’re genuinely into him. Like their namesake foods, these guys can go either way. Instead of making him choose, pour a Dry Rose for the acidity of a white and the fruitiness of a red.

Little Tart:
Often mistaken for a slut, not that there’s anything wrong with that, or a bitch, not that any of us is immune, this guy is actually just a flirt. His tangy, aggressive wit is an acquired taste that won’t be overwhelmed by wines with some zip. Serve him Sauvignon Blanc, Portugese Vinho Verde, or Spanish Verdejo

Mr. Earthy:
Even faeries and granola gays like their wine. Help balance his mellow fresh herbs basil, bay leaf, rosemary with whites like Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Albariño from Spain, or Vermentino from Italy. Or give his dirtier, grittier inklings like mushrooms and truffles a red spin with Pinot Noir or Dolcetto.

Global Sophisticate:
With destinations from the Far and Middle East and the South Pacific under his belt, this guy is spicy and brings the heat. He’ll like that you tame him with the contrasting sweetness of European Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Vovrays. If he’s extra spicy after trips to Greece or Latin America, offer him the correspondingly heavy seasoning of a California Syrah or Greek Xinomavro.

Lightweights vs. Chubby Chasers:
Every gay knows white with seafood, right? Well which one depends on the Wine Gay you’re serving. If he’s light like whitefish, equally delicate Pinot Grigio, Chablis and Arneis bring out his true colors. If he’s a little fatty and lush like buttery shrimp or glazed salmon, silky Chardonnay is his best match.

Big & Bold:
He’s bold, but you can handle all of the tang and spice he dishes out. Like the hottest, sweetest barbecue you ever tasted, serve this guy a Malbec, Shiraz or Côtes-du-Rhône that can stand up to him blow-for-blow.

Rustic Outdoorsman:
He likes fresh air and piney woods, but glamping is more his style than camping. Think Restoration Hardware and Land’s End instead of REI and Yeti. Match his pastoral but refined palate for pates and terrines with similarly rustic Zinfandel, Italian Nero d’Avola or Spanish Monastrell.

Meaty Man:
If you grunt when you lay eyes on him instead of opine or demure, you’re into Mr. Meaty. Meat and potatoes calls for you to respond with likewise firmness like the tannins of Cabernet, Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style Blends. They’ll refresh you after each bite.

Sweet Guy:
Before you take this one home to mom, find the root of his sweetness. Show off the fruit, not the sugar, with a moderately sweet Sparkling Wine.

Ponce City Market’s tasteful Brezza Cucina made for a gracious gay Throwback Thursday date night in a year already ripe for nostalgia.

By Tray Butler

As we polished off dessert at Brezza Cucina, the stylish new Ponce City Market bistro, I turned to my dinner date and asked, “Wait, what year is it again?”

I was kidding. Mostly.

The first days of January often leave me sort of jetlagged, but my temporal unrest has been off the hook in 2016. Gas prices have dipped below $2. Folks are buzzing about “Star Wars,” “Full House” and “The X-Files.” Our next president could be a Bush or a Clinton. The “new” year so far feels suspiciously like a rerun.

And maybe that’s not such a bad thing. Nostalgia accounts for much of the fun of visiting Ponce City Market. The renovation of the former Sears, Roebuck and Company building handled its retro-modern design elements with care and ingenuity. Its recent rebirth into a New Urbanist complex is nothing short of miraculous.

No wonder Chef Jonathan Waxman chose the refurbished market for his first Atlanta venture, Brezza Cucina. The 66-year-old restaurateur knows a thing or two about reinvention. He earned the title “celebrity chef” by bringing California cuisine to New York’s Upper East Side in the 1980s, has owned myriad high-profile restaurants and just as many flame-outs, and has held every spot on the culinary food chain. Along the way, he also competed on two seasons of “Top Chef: Masters,” published two cookbooks, and taught Martha Stewart how to roast a chicken.

Not that you need to know any of this to enjoy an evening at Brezza. Buzz over Waxman’s joint venture with Adam Evans, former executive chef at the Optimist in West Midtown, began to build late last summer. In October, they finally opened as an anchor tenant in Ponce City Market’s Central Food Hall.

A recent visit to the roomy 150-seat restaurant found the staff jovial and accommodating, which added to the relaxed vibe of the subtly designed space. Despite the exposed ductwork ceilings and imposing columns, the dining room felt cozy and not too noisy for conversation.

We were seated at a four-top near two giggling women wearing fedoras (no doubt purchased that night). A handful of business-attired types were holding court at the glowing main bar. Something about the bottle display and moody ochre lighting reminded me of a liquor ad from an early 1980’s gentlemen’s magazine, a noticeable whiff of Reagan-era affluence. The mood overall, though, better matched the restaurant’s name, “breeze” in Italian.

Such a name seems to imply a traditional Italian trattoria. Also, in light of Evans’s tenure at the Optimist, you might expect the menu to be mostly seafood. Neither of these assumptions are accurate. Our server described the ever-changing menu as “New American with Italian influences.” It also offers throwbacks to Waxman’s biggest achievements elsewhere. In the rear of the space, a flank of uniformed cooks bustled around a wood-fired oven; the open kitchen is a signature element of his empire, and a few other trademarks appeared on the menu. This is where our server stumbled.

Note to employees of celebrity-driven restaurants: When asked about the curious abbreviations on your menu, it might be wise to say more than, “JW stands for Jonathan Waxman.” This is your chance to explain to the uninitiated that the roasted chicken covered in an unusual salsa verde is an often-requested favorite from the founder’s other restaurants. Leaving out this tidbit might make the menu sound a bit haughty.

We were disappointed to hear that the lobster gnocchi – rumored to be Brezza’s standout dish – had been replaced with a hen of the woods variation. Our server fared better with his recommendation to start with the salame pizza. Greasy, yes; filling, definitely. Also, delicious.

Ditto for my date’s heritage pork chop served with spicy chickpea fries, a replacement entrée for an uncooperative hangar steak. Despite the minor stumbles, Brezza earned points for its ambiance, hands-on floor staff, and exemplary customer service.

Our meal ended with what might’ve been the real star of the evening, a delectable chocolate budino served with whipped cream and a brutti ma buoni cookie. After inhaling two of these, I wandered out into the food hall, dazed on a sugar high, dying to know what irresistible reruns 2016 may have in store next.

Brezza Cucina, 675 Ponce De Leon Ave., Ponce City Market, 404-724-9700, brezzacucina.com

By Hyde Walker

If a French inspired Southern menu sounds like a scrumptious idea, then you would feel right at home sitting down to dinner at The Luminary, which is exactly what founder and manager Jeremy Iles, along with co-owner and executive chef Eli Kirshtein, wholly intend for you.

Located in the Krog Street Market, it truly is like a home away from home, but with a superior kitchen, friendly staff, and exquisite food. Since its opening in August 2014, The Luminary has served as a specialized eatery amidst all the Asian, Tex-Mex, Mediterranean, and Italian restaurants in Atlanta. Despite being more so fine dining than casual fare, everyone is welcomed through its doors and thoroughly accommodated – it’s not unusual for the kitchen to quickly whip up some chicken nuggets for kids not yet ready to appreciate Pork Belly Poutine and Little Bitches Oysters.

Iles goes more in-depth about what makes The Luminary tick and why you have to try the Parisienne Gnocchi!

Goliath Atlanta: Could you share with us what’s unique about the food at The Luminary?
Jeremy Iles: We make classic dishes more approachable and familiar to our local palate. We take items like a Swordfish Amandine, which is usually done with almonds, and use Pearson pecans instead. They’re the same people who sell the fantastic peaches that you see everywhere.

GA: How did the idea for the cuisine come about?
Jeremy: We identified a need for French inspired cuisine, which was lacking in the landscape of restaurants in the city. So, we were looking to provide a dining experience that wasn’t readily available. We wanted to open a restaurant that would service the neighborhood and be all about Inman Park and its community.

GA: What kind of crowd do you appeal to the most?

Jeremy: Our typical diners are folks from the neighborhood and share our zip code. Something that we also see a lot is people who don’t have a plan of where to eat. They’ll come down to the market and take a look around, see what’s available, and sometimes join us for dinner.

GA: A lot of business owners say that they technically don’t get days off and never really stop working. Do you feel like that’s the case for you too?
Jeremy: It is a very labor-intensive job. As the manager I have a lot of different hats that I theoretically wear. It can be difficult to separate yourself from it. We are fortunate that we’re closed on Mondays, so it gives everyone a day off, which is nice. But it doesn’t mean that you don’t get emails or calls or things of that nature. I do my best not to come in on Mondays just to keep the sanity level!

GA: Is this your first restaurant?
Jeremy: It’s not the first I’ve worked in. I’ve been in the industry for 22 years now, but it’s the first for both myself and Chef Eli to own.

GA: Has it turned out the way that you envisioned?
Jeremy: For the most part, yes. But restaurants change. The identity that you think it’s going to be before you open is going to evolve and adapt as time goes by. It’s never going to be exactly what you thought it would be on day one – which is a good thing, it’s natural. You have to conform to the whims and desires of your customers. With that being said, we are certainly within our concept of wanting to serve the community and give them a restaurant experience that we thought they would enjoy.

GA: That’s wonderful! Considering where you’re located, do you have a large gay clientele?
Jeremy: Yes, we seem to. But I’m not entirely sure what sort of percentage. It’s not something that we track either, there’s no poll [laughs]. We’re not going around to the tables and asking “What is your orientation?” I don’t think that would be a good thing to do!

GA: Agreed! Is The Luminary involved in any aspect of the gay community?

Jeremy: We’re not, but it’s not for lack of wanting to. We just haven’t been invited anywhere! We’re always happy to be involved in anything and everything within the community – whether it be charity driven or an event. We’re always really excited to get involved.

GA: Hopefully after this issue comes out you will get a couple of invites.
Jeremy: I hope so! That would be awesome!

GA: How did you and Eli meet?

Jeremy: The Chef and I have been close friends and coworkers for a considerable amount of time now. We originally met about 12 years ago working within the restaurant industry. We became close friends and have worked together several times.

GA: How would you say The Luminary stands out amongst the hundreds of other restaurants in Atlanta?
Jeremy: We strive to provide a great guest experience. We talk about hospitality being our most important pennant. Hospitality starts from the front door as a genuine happy-to-see-ya and being gracious. That’s really important to us and it makes us stand out by far. Also, our design is original. It’s clean and modern yet edgy, and speaks to the vintage brassieres of New York and Montreal.

GA: It sounds like tradition and good manners are crucial.

Jeremy: Yes. We want people to feel embraced in their dining experience and to feel at ease.

GA: What are some of your favorite dishes to eat off the menu?
Jeremy: The Steak Frites! It’s hanger steak and really delicious French fries that we hand-cut. Another one is the Parisienne Gnocchi. It’s a little soft dumpling that’s been seared and combined with cheese curds, mushrooms, and a foie gras sauce. Our mussels are excellent and the sauce is almost life changing – a nice crème fraiche with a little mustard and white wine that you can soak up with bread or fries.

GA: What would you recommend for Goliath readers to come in and try?
Jeremy: If you’re looking to be adventurous, the octopus is excellent. It’s perfectly tender and the flavors are amazing. If you want to be a little on the safer side, our Chicken Roulade is heavenly. You never hear anybody recommend the chicken! Why would you do that? It’s just very tasty!

GA: You sound like you’re drooling talking about this.
Jeremy: I know! It’s all passion.

GA: That’s always a good sign. It seems like The Luminary was born out of passion and that’s what keeps it thriving.
Jeremy: Very much so. It’s like creating art in a lot of ways, and to be able to share that art and that passion is really quite a blessing.

The Luminary is located at 99 Krog Street, Suite Y, Atlanta, GA 30307. For more information, visit www.theluminaryatl.com or call 404-600-6199.

By Michael Chisholm

Fall is the season of leather and jockstraps. Helmets and tight pants. Pigskins and jerseys.

That’s right, gentleman. It’s football season, and you want to throw a party celebrating your favorite team. Some gay men love football just as much as any other sports fans in Atlanta.

Here are a few pointers for your festive football fiesta. Whether it be the Super Bowl or an SEC game, you want to make this party memorable.

First, where are you going to hold this event? Is your place big enough to host all your buddies comfortably? If not, consider bribing another friend with a swankier place, perhaps with booze. Make sure there’s lots of sitting room and a large coffee table for in-between games and chatter.

This usually goes without saying, but the TV is the most important part of the football party experience. You want the screen to be large enough for all to see, and no matter how large it is, your guests will be on the edge of their seats for the experience. One that takes up the whole wall or even a projector is the dream, but if that isn’t possible, have the largest screen you can get with room for team decorations on the mantle or TV stand.

Next comes the question of who to invite. You want a mix of friends to fill the room. When the game really kicks off, you need your fellow enthusiasts. Your couch buddies who get into the game as much as you do need to be on the list, but you should also invite some not-so-sports-crazed fans. Why? You don’t have to enjoy football to appreciate a bunch of gorgeous guys chasing each other around a field. Just remind your friends that there will be booze and food, and you’ll have a full house.

At most football parties fans proudly wear jerseys and sneakers, but gay men know that presentation is important at any event, especially if you’re hosting. A full-on ensemble commemorating your favorite team is essential. Encourage your friends to dress up as well. Think semi-formal, cardigans, khakis, button ups, etc. Make sure the viewing area is a sea of support and opposition for the game.

Most football parties are known for beers and kegs, but we gay men actually prefer to taste what we drink, not just consume it and spill it on someone later. And if we’re going to drink empty calories, we’re going to make them count. Pinterest has loads of cocktail recipes themed for many different teams both NFL and SEC. For example, look for “The Bulldog” for the Dawgs, “The Alabama Yella Hamma” for Alabama, and “Auburn Blue & Orangeade” for The Tigers. There’s a drink for every fan . . . and hater.

As for food, chances are you aren’t the only one who knows how to cook in your circle of friends. Set out some cheese and crackers and football-themed snacks, but also encourage guests to bring their favorite dishes, preferably something easy to scoop or pick out of a bowl.

Finally, how about some games to add to the excitement for both your spirited and not-so-football-crazy crew? Whether you’re watching the Super Bowl or an SEC game, you could organize a drinking game and take wagers or have guests drink shots for guessing or not guessing what the next TV commercial will be. For a merrier crowd, you could even hold your own gay Fantasy Draft based on the hotness of the players. Maybe even create a game of who you’d like to tackle (or have tackle you)? Whatever games you choose, just make it fun and your guests will be asking when they can come to your next party.

Football season won’t be here much longer, so hosting a party is something you really want to do, you’d better get planning.

Stock up, drink up, and game on!