Old World Tastes Meet Modern Meals at Mulavi
New restaurant on highrise row brings a Mediterranean twist to chic in-town dining
By Mike Fleming
Some places just make you feel dressed up just by stepping into their environments. The best ones do it while simultaneously helping you feel relaxed and ready to enjoy their many splendored offerings. Welcome to Mulavi.
In the booming heart of a revitalized West Peachtree Street adjacent to the posh Alta Midtown highrise, the dining room’s clean lines, warm tones, full bar, and comfortable window view of the hustle and bustle outside make it a perfect urban escape. Mulavi is that rare breed of eatery where elegant is never stuffy, and where Old World inspiration meets your fabulously contemporary palate.
The best case in point is the restaurant’s most popular item. It’s not often a Mediterranean place features an out-of-this-world burger. The Mulavi Burger is spectacular, featuring eggplant, red pepper, roma tomato, Bulgarian cheese, spring mix and roasted red onion aioli. Don’t ask t substitute the handcut fries, because they help top this meal as one of the most satisfying you’ll try this month.
Digging deeper into Mulavi’s offerings, the menu also features kabobs and wraps of filet mignon, salmon and shrimp that will each surprise you with bold twists on traditional flavors. Vegetarian options, including falafel wraps and veggie skewers, are also available. For bigger meals, try a lamb shank so tender and perfectly cooked that will make you forget beef, at least temporarily.
In a city where side dishes can be an afterthought, Mulavi offers a smorgasbord that on its own might satisfy a table of culinary adventurers who want to share nibbles over drinks. Three kinds of rice – barberry and saffron, cranberry and shaved almond, and raisins and onions – appear on the menu alongside a perfect quinoa salad, hearty baba ganoush, turshi (pickled vegetables), and decadent “smashed” potatoes, which will immediately earn your self-forgiveness for the carb infusion.
Desserts are as creative and decadent as you can imagine in such an establishment. We tried the pomegranate cheesecake and the baklava cheesecake. They were so good, we actually entertained the fantasy of making room for a bonus round of bread pudding and saffron ice cream.
The service is high end-attentive, but never overbearing. A genuine excitement about the menu and its inspired twists made our server quick with suggestions and a readiness to answer questions. The price point is quite a bit higher than your average burger joint or falafel hut, but since this is anything you’re your average burger or wrap, the tab is nothing you suprising for this atmosphere and menu.
Whether in pairs with your man, in groups with your boys, or entertaining out-of-town guests, Mulavi is intown Atlanta at its up-and-coming best. Come in and enjoy a great menu filled with Mediterranean-inspired dishes guaranteed to delight your taste buds and provide a wonderful blend of flavors and spices. Live entertainment and cocktail specials on weekends, as well as a simply lovely patio for dining al fresco make it a great stop on your next Midtown adventure.